I was back in the UK for a holiday over Easter and then another couple of weeks for work. I always like to get to the west coast if possible when I’m in Scotland. I like to get off the beaten track, so as always, I looked for some interesting accomodation. One thing there is no shortage of in this neck of the woods is lighthouses and after a wee search I found an ex lighthouse-keepers cottage at the Ardnamurchan Lighthouse available for rent for a week. It had 2 bedrooms, so was perfect for mum and I. We stayed with my sister in Glasgow on the Saturday and drove up there on Easter Sunday. Rather than the long drive, we took a slightly more relaxed approach and took the ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull, short drive to Tobermory, ferry to Kilchoan on the Ardnamurchan peninsula and then an even shorter drive to the lighthouse.
The lighthouse was designed and built by Alan Stevenson, uncle of Robert Louis Stevenson, in 1849 from Mull pink granite. It was built in the Egyptian style popular at the time with features visible in the design of both the lighthouse and the keepers cottages.
The construction of the buildings is very solid with incredibly thick walls, so very cosy with the modern electric heating. We had picked up some lovely fresh fish and meat at Loch Fyne Oysters and a mini-cask of Jarl light ale from Fyne Ales, so enjoyed a few days of relaxed wandering, eating and drinking. Outdoor activities were limited by the brutally cold northerly wind, fine in a sunny sheltered spot, but too cold for comfort in the wind.
On Thursday morning we took the ferry back to Tobermory. I had booked us into the grand old Western Isles Hotel, which I vividly remember from childhood visits to Tobermory, standing high above Tobermory harbour. I had also booked us into one of my favourite restaurants that evening, the wonderful Cafe Fish. The name tells part of the story, but the fact that they have their own fishing trawler, Highlander, is the real story. It’s all about the freshest possible seasonal seafood, on your plate within a few hours of being landed. I intended going there for lunch too. I hadn’t told mum, but there was no arm-twisting required. After a great lunch we checked into the hotel. Mum’s room was awesome, but mine was that little bit more awesome with a raised sitting area in a large bay window looking out over the Sound of Mull – the Glenlivet Room for reference. The weather was, shall we say, moody, but the blossom brightened things up.
At dinner, we had the prime corner window table with a view out over Tobermory harbour. Dinner was fabulous, as fresh as seafood gets and in my opinion cold water seafood is somehow better, slower growing maybe.
Already looking forward to my next visit.